ASTORIA JEWELS AND GOOD BEER

Fort Astoria marks the spot where the town of Astoria was begun. John Jacob Astor sent the schooner, Tonquin to seize the mouth of the Columbia and forever control the river and its traffic and the area Lewis and Clark explored. The first building was built in 1811. Palisades against the indians were added later. Not all of Astor’s plans succeeded, but the fort served as the business center for everyone who followed, adventurers, trappers, farmers, ship builders and entrepreneurs. The first white woman in the Northwest Territory, barmaid Jane Barnes, lived at this fort in 1814. The fort was sold to the North West Company to avoid capture during the War of 1812.

The 125 foot Astoria Column stands on top of Coxcomb hill. It is wrapped with sgraffito drawings, an Italian process where the paint colors are mixed with the cement, making them weather resistant and relatively permanent. The panoply of drawings depict significant events of the area and remind us of the significance of the great river Columbia where it meets the Pacific. The view over the valley from the grounds is spectacular. If you choose to walk up the 164 step spiral staircase to the top of the tower, it is even better. The tower is undergoing restoration-thus the crane.

Many old buildings remain in the heart of downtown Astoria. Don't miss the Liberty Theater. Completely restored in the opulent style of old theaters, the inside is exotically decorated with scenes from Venice, transporting you to a Venetian Palace with elegant light fixtures and heavy draperies. It operates now as a performing arts center.

We lunched at the Wet Dog Cafe where the food was expensive but the beers had no peer. Kick Ass Stout was my choice but tasters allow you to try Bitter Bitch Ale, Poop Deck Porter, DaBomb Blonde, Kirby Kolsch, Red Beard Amber, Solar Dog IPA, and Stone Cold Strong. Hmmm! A beer lovers heaven with a view to the ocean as well.

FLAVEL HOUSE AND HERITAGE MUSEUM

The Astoria Heritage Museum was built as the City Hall and Police Department. Next it served as the Clatsop County Library. During the WWII it served as a USO Club for servicemen and later housed the Columbia Maritime Museum. It has a wonderful interpretive area about the local indian tribes. It covers settlers, maritime events, logging, lumbering and fishing. But, the most interesting part is the disreputable, wiley cheats, slavers, dishonest politicians, gambling, bordellos, hangings, bootlegging, shanghaiing, and wide open exploitation of the people by their own governing officials.
Astoria had the reputation for being the seediest, roughest town on the Pacific Coast. Men floated into town with pockets full of money and wanted wine, women and song. Entreprenuers without morals provided. Men looking for work, found it, as long as they were willing to look the other way when things weren't on the up-and-up. Shanghaiing sailors was a huge business, as was prostitution, participated in by otherwise upstanding business people. Often their wives knew nothing of their husband's real activities in business. For some years, Astoria even had an active Klan. Bribing judges, jurors, councilmen, senators and lawyers was brazenly commonplace. It is a fact of human nature that the many stories of individual shiesters, shady ladies, and ear biting bad guys was the most interesting part of the museum. I mean, the Chief of police sold bootleg whiskey in milk bottles painted white. I couldn't help being fascinated.

Now, listed on the National Register of historical buildings, it is owned by the Clatsop County Historical Society. Its kind of ironic that it was built as a city hall and maligns the very people who "served" as city officials and business leaders of the community.


At a later time in the history of Astoria, (mid 1800's,) Captain George Flavel was an innovative entrepreneur who bypassed opportunities in San Francisco and chose Astoria instead. He realized the potential to make money by becoming a river bar pilot, the first, in fact, licensed on the Columbia.
Money, of course, begets money and he eventually had his fingers in farms, other businesses, property, banking- you name it. An upstanding citizen, charitable and influential, as was his frugal wife, the family built this 11,600 sq. ft. house, now a museum. The back of the house, left is more beautiful than the front of the house. I could happily find enough space to live in their carriage house. My favorite spot, though, was under the huge old growth tree in their front yard. These buildings are close to each other and both worth visiting.

COLUMBIA MARITIME MUSEUM, THE GRAVEYARD OF THE PACIFIC AND THE LIGHT SHIP COLUMBIA

The marvelous Columbia Maritime Museum has beautiful paintings, like the one above, life sized coast guard vessels, rescue enactments, and a captivating collection of its historical layers beginning with 2000 known vessels sunk in an around the mouth of the Columbia, an area aptly called the Graveyard of the Pacific.
Starting with the exploration by Lewis and Clark, fort Clatsop became a trading center for furs, and the great ships did come.
John Jacob Astor set up the first great commercial outpost for fur trading closer to the ocean and the town that built up around it is named Astoria after him. He failed, but his interest was picked up by the Hudson Bay Company and fur trading commenced successfully for many years.
At one time, the Columbia was used by 400 steam ships, (paddle wheelers,) that burned as much as 40 cords of wood in a day, decimating great swaths of forest. The steamers were efficient at moving goods up the Columbia as far as Idaho. Ready lumber from the old growth forests made that trade possible. Railways played their part to move lumber east and to shipyards for export.
Next came King Salmon. The Columbia River became the salmon canning capital of the world.
The importance of the Columbia River was recognized by the U.S. Government and several forts to protect U.S. interests were commissioned along the Pacific North West over the years.
But, Columbia's flow into the Pacific produced a treacherous set of waters, one of the most dangerous bars in the world. The museum is a tale of man's determination to ship, to fish, to lumber, to use the port against all sense of the inherent dangers.
The unique coast, shifting sand bars, tides and fresh water clashing with salt water make this history, eloquently preserved by the museum, a breathtaking tale. It is by far the best Maritime Museum I've ever seen.
The entrance was difficult and remains so,today. A special pilot must board each ship entering the harbor to guide it through the treacherous shoals. The pilots, light ships, and sea rescue training of the Coast Guard is estimated to save 600 lives per year.
Now, most traffic into the Columbia is tugged in on barges and travels as far as Lewistown, Idaho with the help of locks before transferring to truck or rail.
There are wonderfully enlivened exhibits, photos, artifacts and elegant paintings of the old sail boats that once plied the coast.
The old light ship, Columbia, is part of the exhibits. The light ships that lighted the way into the harbor have been replaced with gigantic buoys.

Behind this grand anchor is the Columbia. The light ships were stationed at the mouth of the Columbia and were literally floating lighthouses. It is expected they saved hundreds of lives over the years. Manned by 17 crew members, they were replaced by less expensive to operate lighted buoys.

This special mushroom shaped anchor was able to stabilize the lightships in deep, rough water. Don't miss this museum.

These buoys replaced the light ships and are still used today.

FORT STEVENS TOOK ENEMY FIRE

Its a little know fact that:

The only military base in the United States to be fired on by an enemy since the Civil War was Fort Stevens. A Japanese sub fired on fort Stevens during WWII but failed to inflict much damage.
Remains of a century old wreck, the Peter Iredale is visible on the south jetty which is an excellent spot to watch ships.
Fort Stevens was one of the early forts on the Columbia near Fort Clatsop and served during the Civil War from 1862 and on through to World War II. Most of the buildings were leveled long ago, but the Guard House is intact with grounds and a park where this Single Bore cannon stands as a reminder of its role in protecting U.S. shores from entrance by an enemy through the Columbia. The 3,800 acre park has one of the largest public campgrounds in the U.S.
The intact Guard House mostly punished drunken servicemen and had generous sized cells in a bunkhouse style. The Fort was decommissioned in 1946.

HANTHORN CANNERY AND GOOD EATS ON PIER 39

Visiting Pier 39 at Astoria brought us to the Historic Hanthorn Cannery museum. The cannery is now cold storage and offices, but during its hey dey, it sent millions of cases of salmon and tuna per year around the world. The most unusual cold storage was the ice cubes in the urinals of the unisex bathroom.
Three huge walk in refrigerators held the memorabilia; huge pictures on the walls; an informative video and pieces of old canning machinery.

Just one crab trap weighs 90 pounds. A Fishermen's competition would require a guy to stack 10 of these in less than three minutes. I tired photographing some of the old pictures on the wall.

Women worked the canneries and there were no unions or men on the lines.

Hanthorn Cannery was built in 1875. By 1887, J.O. Hanthorn, with six other canneries, formed the Columbia River Packers Association. At one time 38 canneries operated on the Columbia River.
Salmon was king, but by 1900, the salmon runs were suffering from over fishing. Tuna revived the canneries and over took salmon as the most popular canned fish. In 1938 the Bonneville Dam, and three years later, the Grand Coulee, finished the salmon runs.
The Hanthorn cannery is the only one left to provide an interpretive center that recounts the story of 130 years of history. The museum is free of charge and is operated by a non-profit foundation.
Also on the pier was the Rogue Public House that specialized in Harry's Beer Cheese Soup with Andouille sausage made with Dead Man Ale and served with their famous hazelnut bread.
Their home brews included a Brutally Bitter Ale and a wonderful stout. The clam chowder was different than any I've tasted and delicious. It had a strong rosemary flavor that did not overpower the clams.


You can also choose a taster and try several different types for a small fee.

FORT CLATSOP, LEWIS AND CLARK

-Weather cooperated yesterday, the sun shone bright as we walked in the very footsteps of Lewis and Clark, from their landing on the riverbank to the place they built their fort. They named it to honor the friendly Clatsop Indians.
The Fort Clatsop Visitors Center reminds us that buying the Louisiana Purchase doubled the size of our country and forever changed the course of the world. Pretty heady stuff.
I'd forgotten so many details of the Lewis and Clark expeditions wonderful saga; the talent of the two men who literally measured their way across those thousands of miles of wild and exciting country. Half of the plant specimens they gathered and named still exist. They met hostile and friendly Indians but managed to communicate and befriend them. Not a shot was fired in anger. That, in itself, was an amazing accomplishment.
The two men served as biologists, scientists, hunters,doctors, explorers, builders, soldiers, navigators and leaders of men. I promised myself to reread the book that includes their journals of this marvelous journey.
Fort Clatsop was restored in the 1980's only to burn down and get rebuilt in 2007/08. The picture shows the newness of the wood sitting in an old growth forest.

From the Indians, they learned what plants were edible and medicinal. They learned to build dugouts from river tribes along the way. Dugouts weren't dependable ocean going vessels The Clatsop and Chinook used wider, lighter, high prow cedar canoes in the rough waters where river met ocean.
The party chose the Oregon side of the Columbia river to build their fort after being trapped by an horrific storm on rocky cliffs for six days on the opposite side of the river. That spot is named Dismal Niche. There are many hiking trails and sights to see at this wonderful National Park.
Nothing was named for Sacagawea, their indispensable guide, but, it was the way of things then, to disregard the accomplishments of women. Without her, they may not have survived the trip.

TSUNAMI WARNINGS, SEASIDE, LEWIS AND CLARK

(The first photo shows the Lewis and Clark company salt burner)

Touristy beach towns have satisfying similarities, in some ways. Besides the smell of the seaweed, and salt ocean, walking the short streets brought layers of odors. Salt water taffy, mingled with caramel corn. Then a hint of hot sweet coffee and the powerful odor of burgers and french fries. At one point it was batter fried fish of some sort next to burned cotton candy and maple syrup. A waft of chocolate and peanuts. An ice cream store on every street corner. Yum!
Thai, Greek, Italian, Mexican food...the smells were tumbling out of the store fronts between windows of gifts featuring kitschy souvenirs, quality paintings, glass works, incredibly talented hand crafts, jewelry and the inevitable T-Shirt, baggy shorts, and flip flop boutiques. Throw in a skate board, boogie board, tattoo and swim wear shop and you have it all. Summer heaven for kids. Not many have tsunami warnings.
Weather was coolish, and the tourists aren't yet swarming, but, those that were about town were enjoying it as much as I enjoyed people watching.

We stopped to see the End of the Trail. This beach is the western terminus of the Lewis and Clark expedition. They spent time making salt and their salt burner still stands preserved. A statue marks the site. Brass medallions decorated a bridge over an un-named river pouring into the ocean, commemorated their feats, as well.
The town itself has those quaint salt box houses dripping with giant blooming rhododendrons everywhere. one had lobster shutters. Another we saw had buoys hanging from the garage eaves. Its a fun place to visit cold or hot.

Not every beach town has a carousel. They are becoming scarce, but, here sits a beauty with wonderfully imaginative animals to ride. Around town, inside a building, no less, was bumper cars, a tilt-a-whirl and kiddie rides plus several arcades with flash-ball and other wonderfully absorbing games designed to separate every healthy teenager from his change.
A 1/2 dozen places rented bicycles, and quadcycles built for four. Some bicycles built for two, adjacent style, hold baskets for a couple of kids. A smiley faced electric vehicle screams RENT ME!!


For more pictures of Seaside and Lewis and Clark stuff, click on the web link below for a quick slideshow.

http://picasaweb.google.com/1579penn/SeasideOR#

HISTORIC MATHENY FERRY

Ferries are common in the State of Washington, but Oregon has a few as well. We walked to, then rode the Matheny Ferry across the Willamette River located near Leo Perth's house while visiting him in Wheatland.
The ferry was switched from an old fashioned pulley type to diesel. Diesel got so expensive, they reverted to the pulley. Near the ferry an old landing is visible where the ferry once operated with live donkey's pulling the ferry across on a cable instead of the electric "donkey" now in operation.






This area was settled by Captain Matheny who named the town Atchison. It was once the suggested capitol of Oregon because of its great up-river access for shipping goods by barge and ferry to local communities. Eventually, deep harbors provided access to bigger vessels and the place was abandoned as a great capitol center. It was renamed appropriately, Wheatland, with acres and acres of wheat and other feed grasses, a major industry.
Matheny's home site remains, along with an ancient "old growth" tree in his front yard where with this plaque commemorates a pioneer Captain of Industry.






One thing about the current ferry, which runs continuously whenever traffic gathers. You can't depend on it to get to work. It stops during a power failure. It stops if the water is too high, or in excessive wind, or if the operator is sick. That hasn't changed since the old days. Its a lovely spot, though.

SUCK IT IN GUYS!

Wheatland, Oregon may not be known for excitement, but we found plenty. JimJ and I parked at Fran and Leo Perth's house where we enjoyed dinner with great company and plenty of laughter. When I went to photograph the two long time friends, they complained I didn't give them enough warning to suck in their guts. Hah! You be the judge of which photo is best.

During the evening we heard two loud explosions, like gunfire. Fran called from work to warn us she heard a tornado warning was in effect for the area. The winds were fierce. Rain pounded the roof, windows, lawn, and street with such ferocity we knew we were in for a gully washer if not worse. The power winked on and off several times, lights dimming.
The next morning, while walking Leo's Dobies, we saw where a huge cottonwood tree lost a main leader, the size of a medium tree. Plus a second tree went down beside it. Both hit the power lines and put out the transformers, explaining the gunfire sounds. Debris was spread across both sides of the road

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We departed for Seaside, OR. and met fallen branches, downed trees, cemeteries covered with debris. Clean up crews were everywhere clearing streets and public parkways in many little towns on the way. Even so, it wasn't much of a tornado.
At Dayton, we stopped to photograph a historic blockhouse and wondered how they fended off the cold in such buildings as we rolled along, safe and warm in the motor home.

ROGUE RIVER AND THE HISTORIC WIMER COVERED BRIDGE

Arrived in Rogue River late in the day. It was supposed to rain, but the weather was balmy and dry. Our stop here is to check on my rental 13 miles East of Rogue River near the little town of Wimer.
Wimer's claim to fame is an old historic covered bridge. In 2004 it fell into Evans Creek and traffic came to a shuttering halt.
Many meetings, fundraisers and pleas for grants over the years seemed to stall and go nowhere. Imagine my surprise when I rolled into Wimer to find the bridge restored. Dusty, at Wimer's store and gas pump, informed me the restoration was finally completed in 2008.
Hallelujah.

It was nice to see Wimer City Hall, intact. I don't know whose idea it was to paint that old roof, but it never fails to amuse.