CAJUN IS KING

Decisions, decisions. A wealth of music, now which affair to attend? Every morning we were in Eunice, the Savoy Music Company had a free jam of local Cajun, Blues or Zydeco musicians. Its nice to hear the musician before you decide what music to buy. They sell a wide variety of local C.D.s The sign on the door reads: No Soul, No Service.
That evening, our choice was free Cajun music at DI's with dinner, a dance at a local RV Park, or a two band program at the old, recently refurbished, historical Liberty Theatre. Its part of the National Park Complex along with the Acadian Center. The cajun accordionist played his electric instrument behind his back, up over his head and regular style. Beating the hell out of an accordion takes muscle. A very talented young man whose name I couldn't pronounce nor spell. The program was mostly in French. Young people aren't as interested in Zydeco and Cajun as the older generation. I sat next to this young man's wife. He is an exception at 31, with a two year old daughter, just getting into the game. None of these musicians make a living with their music, she told me. "They just love the tradition and the sound of home."

We watched the people dance. The women don't have to urge their husbands onto the dance floor. The men are first on their feet. They come to have fun and it was obvious they did. I fear this particular style of dance is passing the way of the older generation. Calvin Daigle taught me to dance Cajun style at Fred's. He instructed me thus:
"The lady must keep her legs stiff and slide backward. The man takes a step backwards once in awhile just to give her some relief. Its a glide. Then the two-step is the same but you still glide."
I got the hang of it. Luckily, Fred's wooden floor had some type of fine dust to assist the dancers, especially people like me who wore tennis shoes. The liberty theatre floor is wonderful old plank hardwood, excellent for dancing. They did vaudeville shows in this place at one time. Beautiful place. The entrance is unique with etched glass front doors.


We said goodbye to Eunice on Sunday and drove to Westwego for a two week stay at Bayou Segnette State Park. The weather is beautiful. Got the bikes down since the paths here are bike friendly with little auto traffic. Looking forward to New Orleans, great food, Mardi Gras and a host of other activities in the days to come.

ASTORIA JEWELS AND GOOD BEER

Fort Astoria marks the spot where the town of Astoria was begun. John Jacob Astor sent the schooner, Tonquin to seize the mouth of the Columbia and forever control the river and its traffic and the area Lewis and Clark explored. The first building was built in 1811. Palisades against the indians were added later. Not all of Astor’s plans succeeded, but the fort served as the business center for everyone who followed, adventurers, trappers, farmers, ship builders and entrepreneurs. The first white woman in the Northwest Territory, barmaid Jane Barnes, lived at this fort in 1814. The fort was sold to the North West Company to avoid capture during the War of 1812.

The 125 foot Astoria Column stands on top of Coxcomb hill. It is wrapped with sgraffito drawings, an Italian process where the paint colors are mixed with the cement, making them weather resistant and relatively permanent. The panoply of drawings depict significant events of the area and remind us of the significance of the great river Columbia where it meets the Pacific. The view over the valley from the grounds is spectacular. If you choose to walk up the 164 step spiral staircase to the top of the tower, it is even better. The tower is undergoing restoration-thus the crane.

Many old buildings remain in the heart of downtown Astoria. Don't miss the Liberty Theater. Completely restored in the opulent style of old theaters, the inside is exotically decorated with scenes from Venice, transporting you to a Venetian Palace with elegant light fixtures and heavy draperies. It operates now as a performing arts center.

We lunched at the Wet Dog Cafe where the food was expensive but the beers had no peer. Kick Ass Stout was my choice but tasters allow you to try Bitter Bitch Ale, Poop Deck Porter, DaBomb Blonde, Kirby Kolsch, Red Beard Amber, Solar Dog IPA, and Stone Cold Strong. Hmmm! A beer lovers heaven with a view to the ocean as well.