
Leaving Ashland, we stopped at the Northern Great Lakes Visitors
Center. They were celebrating the grand opening of a new exhibit about
Aldo Leopold and the docent teasingly said this fall basket of mums
matched my clothes and I should have my picture taken with it. The
building is quite impressive but I found the displays rather plastic. A
voices about Native Americans film was poorly done. The see-through
lighted-from-behind screen was shadowed by the exit sign lights and
other invasive light made it difficult to see. The exhibits are
designed to play with and press buttons and the story and pictures,
except for a 75 foot tall mural, just didn’t give me a satisfied feel,
or peak my curiosity, except for this sign:

Just the sign, then very little about people settling here and
struggling to make it. Duluth is in Minnesota, maybe that is why. But,
Highway 2 is on a direct line to Duluth. I guess I’m jaded. I’ve seen so
many wonderful visitors centers that give you a strong feel for where
you are.
The Leopold exhibit was sparse. Aldo Leopold was one of America’s
foremost conservationists. He is renowned for starting the national
wilderness system, founding the field of wildlife management and
ecology, and writing the conservation classic
A Sand County Almanac. He devoted his life to the question,
“How do we live on the land without spoiling it?”
A question we are still asking today. But, no counterpart of what
Wisconsin has done to fulfill that goal. I asked the docent where I
could see some big sugar maples, some huge hemlocks and pines and
birches. She said there are a few stands here and there, on an island,
or a park. Except for a nice garden in front of the center, it is
surrounded by grass. A beautiful viewing tower to look at twigs for
trees and grass. It makes me wonder, is this state way behind in
recognizing the very lessons that Leopold brought to American
consciousness? I was truly disappointed.

This map is
suggesting that climate change is a
reality and this is what could happen. While we travel around the
country we hear people everywhere, say: “This is unusual weather. It
isn’t usually like this.” At Ashland, a storm blew up like a veritable
tornado. Campers commented at how unusual it is to get so many violent
storms. In Michigan, the humidity and weeks on end of higher than normal
temps? people were shaking their heads, “don’t know, this weather. My
barley heads are bigger this year, but my corn is destroyed,” etc. etc.

The center had an artists rendering of the extinct American Carrier
Pigeons that were so important during WW1. I was amazed at how beautiful
they were and wonder how our society let them die out. It bothers me
still that these things happened. In fact, one poster of a former
Wisconsin governor claimed, “We have enough great forests to last our
population forever.” If only they knew what greed could do.

When we reached Superior, we spent the night at the Richard Bong
Veterans Historical Center. Richard Ira Bong above was a WWII fighter
pilot who surpassed Eddie Rickenbacker’s record for downing 27 enemy
planes. Just a young kid of 18, his first battle netted 6 kills. They
stopped him at 22 kills thinking their new, young hero would make a
better emissary for selling war bonds. He got bored with that and asked
to go back to battle. Then they stopped him at 40, for fear they’d lose
their hero as the war just about over. This center is unusual in that
it is mostly devoted to this one man’s exploits with a lot of war
statistics and memorabilia to fill a huge three-story building. It is
located here because Richard Bong was born and raised in Poplar, WI,
just a few miles away from this center. His control of the Japanese air
attacks made a huge difference in the outcome of the war. Many battle
plans rested on his ability to perform and he is fittingly a great
American Hero. Well worth a visit. This visit came as a positive, in one
way because I’d just finished reading In Harms Way, by Doug Stanton,
about the horrible shafting the Navy dealt Major McVay, the commanding
officer of the Indianapolis when it was sunk by a Japanese sub. It took
until 2001, 56 years after the sinking, to exonerate McVay.
And, a negative because I am so anti-war. Not that WWII wasn’t
necessary, it was. But most wars are over American expansionism, our
corporate interests in foreign countries, intervention in foreign
countries leadership, ideology, religion, lack of tolerance for other
nations culture, oil, business. Look at these statistics of World War
II:
Of a global population at the time of 2.3 billion people, 85 million
served as soldiers. Sixty million died, 38 million of them civilians.
2/3 rds of the Jewish Population was annihilated. The Soviet Union
lost 27.5 % of their population. 17% of Poles died. 19.4% of Germans
died. 3.67 % of Japanese lost their lives. All countries lost some.
I read here General MacArthur’s statement after the war:
We do have a better world. But we don’t have freedom, tolerance or
justice. We give our freedoms away, piece by piece. We are at war on our
city streets. Tolerance and justice are still unmet goals as a nation.

Protesters then were women and had I been old enough, I’d have been there with them. I do appreciate that I
had the right to protest, a freedom much diminished, narrowing and threatened as I write.
Amen!