Tuesday, April 23, 2013

FAMOUS PEABODY DUCKS AND BEALE STREET-MEMPHIS.

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When you enter the Peabody Hotel anywhere near 11:00, one elevator is closed off for the ducks. The Peabody is a famous hotel where many presidents and dignitaries have stayed. But they encourage everybody off the streets to come see the March of the Ducks.
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From the mezzanine, we watched the duckmaster roll out the red carpet.
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And from above we watched the ducks  scurry to the fountain to the music of a John Phillips Souza March. We waited  along with crowds of others with their cameras aimed.
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Five Mallards swim all day in the posh lobby fountain water and are given the same public march back to the elevator and up to their penthouse on the roof at 5:00.  It started in 1932 when hunters staying at the hotel put decoys in the fountain water as a prank. The guests loved the decoys and eventually they tried live ducks at the suggestion of a  former circus trainer who worked at the hotel. He became the duckmaster. He trained them to perform their march without deviating and that was his new job until his death. The ducks are “on duty” five months of the year,  and are then returned to a local farm to be replaced by five new ones  for the next season.
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Like all upscale hotels, you can find lovely shops in the building.  The Samuel Nathan Galleries has three shops on the premises. Above is a carved  seven-foot ivory tusk. I’m guessing that it is ivory, I didn’t ask. they are probably ancient rather than new.
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This part of the gallery wasn’t open, but the proprietor allowed us in to take pictures to share.
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This elephant has a price tag of $25,000. We only had a few minutes to give you an idea of the maharaja’s treasure in this shop.
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I was attracted by the eggs after having recently purchased mine from Vivian Alexander. Eddy, the manager,  immediately offered to buy mine from me.
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I know I’m going on and on about these exquisite pieces, but the hotel is more than ducks and shops. The history from the first Peabody in 1869 to the present tells interesting  stories. You can take a guided tour of this little city in a building. Be sure and stop. This was my second visit to the Peabody and we skipped the tour. You can’t go everywhere the tour takes you but signs around the hotel allow you to hit the high spots on your own.
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The famous part of Beale street is only about three blocks long. B.B.Kings place is here and plays blues musicians on a regular basis. He is no youngster. I saw him in concert in Murphys probably five years ago. He has a female singer that tours with him, walking with a cane, she has to sit to sing, but can she still belt out the tunes. It was marvelous. I asked workers at the club to remind me of her name, but they were clueless, just young kids.
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We are day trekkers but this street is alive and humming at night with music galore pumping out of these joints thick enough to swim in.  From us, you get the signs and a day walk. This sign?
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The entire inside is just like the sign. Guitars and banjos hang from the ceiling with the names of musicians who have played here. Pretty phenomenal. They take their blues seriously in Memphis.
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The neons  are a spectacle at night.Ya’ gotta walk Beale at night.
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I think this saloon is where the expression came from.
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We stopped and talked to patrons getting sidewalk service at the PIG. They specialize in smoked meats, pulled pork sandwiches, etc. The smells were divine but we avoid red meats. They did have some turkey leg smoked, but we weren’t quite ready to eat just then. Prices on Beale St. are inflated.
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We met near this building a homeless guy named Geno. He was pretty charming and told us he was born here, this is HIS city. He liked to try to climb the steel struts holding up the facade of this building  when he was a kid. He told us a lot about the buildings on the street, kind of like a tour guide. Eventually, he politely asked for a handout, assuring me he didn’t use alcohol. I gladly handed him five bucks. I guess everybody knows I have a homeless brother who  also must get by on charm.
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The patio at Sulky’s was closed, but Geno pointed out the two goats who cavort for customers and climb the tower and pose on the steep walkway. They were out of site of the camera just then.
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There are historic markers here and there along the way.And a park with a statue of  William Christopher Handy.
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They’ve gone Hollywood by placing a musical note for notable musicians in cement. Geeno told us Jerry Lee Lewis’s note embedded in concrete is the only one with hands for his ostentatious piano playing. Geno pointed us in the right direction but we never did run across it.
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Like New Orleans, it has some outrageous even risque signs and products.
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All in fun. This sign is in the window of the store, Strange Cargo.
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And in a town full of musicians, a guitar player may want a toilet seat shaped like a guitar.
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Or something glitzy with a pink Cadillac. We saw one shaped like a piano keyboard. Hey, this is Beale St. home of the blues.
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And there were a couple of blues musicians playing on the street for tips.
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Some beautiful old buildings. This theater gets a second life as a place to hold weddings and other events.
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And on Geno’s  recommendation,we walked two blocks up  2nd street for a kind of scruffy looking fish place.
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On the inside, they post pictures of a great catch from local fishermen and women on their liars wall.
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They have odes to hundreds of catches on their billy bass adoption center. We guessed correctly the fish would be fresh and good and it was.
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And,they are savy enough to know that not everyone wants their fish fried. My grilled catfish and veggies?  Delicious. Good ole’ Geno, didn’t steer us wrong. Kind of interesting that we were looking  at  maharaja’s treasure in the morning, and enjoying the street people in the afternoon. All in a day’s work.
Click the link for more pictures.

https://picasaweb.google.com/106530979158681190260/2013422PeabodyHotelBealeSt

Monday, April 22, 2013

SUN RECORDING STUDIO, MEMPHIS.

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Sun Recording Studios of Memphis is a fun, fun tour. Its located on Union Street and if you grew up with Eivis Presley, Roy Orbison, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash, this is where they got started, with a dream of Studio owner,  Sam Phillips.
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Sam Phillips was a unique character. He grew up around the Blues which according to historians started on Beale Street in Memphis. The slave music of misery,and white  sharecroppers alike singing out their woes; every street corner in the black area of Memphis had a jug band that played for pennies. Music flowed from black churches. The field hollers and rythmic beat of the black community made the streets course with energy  while radio stations only played country music and Grand Old Opry.  Phillips wanted to record it.
Wildman DJ Dewey Phillips introduced white kids to "race" music.

There was one DJ named Dewey Phillips who played “race” music. Teenagers listened to it in secret. Dewey would screech out of his microphone,” If your momma don’t like it, all the better. Tell ‘em Phillips Sencha.” His station was the Red Hot and Blue in Memphis, screaming to the kids.
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What Sam Phllips did, (he and Dewey were not related) was open a recording service. He’d charge you to come in and record your stuff. He’d do a wedding, an anniversary, your poetry, anything at $4 a pop, hoping that someday, someone would walk in his studio. He recorded the Beale Street Blues and captured that raw energy. He didn’t care about white or black music, he would crank up the amps and distort it. He’d blend styles because he thought music should be fun. He wanted music to sound like a party in the room.
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Elvis grew up in Memphis and he walked in one day. But Elvis paid to record his ballads. Sam didn’t like  “You Are My Sunshine” and other such stuff. He’d try and get Elvis to play something with energy.  Elvis  played with the studio band for a year and a half before something happened that Sam liked while the he and the session players  were just messing around in the studio during a break.  It was the song, “That’s All Right.”   Sam brought it to Dewey who played it 14 times the first night it went on the air. Rock N Roll was born.
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A young John Cash walked in in 1954.  “I’m John Cash and I want you to hear me play”.  Sam listened but told him, “write me an uptempo weeper love song”.  “Cry, Cry, Cry” was released in 1955. Sam called him “The Giant Voice In Black.”
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But,  Sun Studio’s first biggest  paying hit was Carl Perkins, “Don’t you Step On My Blue Suede Shoes.”  Of course Sam was sending recordings to Dewey Phillips and Elivis was hitting the pop charts, crossing styles and fusing music. Carl heard Elvis on the Radio, as did Jerry Lee Lewis. It drew them  to Sun Studio.
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This is what the studio calls its Million Dollar Quartet, Jerry Lee, Carl, Cash and Elvis in one photo. Jerry Lee signed on as a session player (back-up pianist) but in between recordings he'd pound the ivories like a wild man, play with his feet until his piano sounded like a drum. He finally broke through with HIS kind of music with a “A Whole Lot Of Shakin’ Goin On” in 1957. And six months later, “Great Balls OF Fire” scaring the hell out of parents everywhere.
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I love this poster of Jerry Lee playing a burning piano. Lewis is the only musician of the fab four who is still alive and playing rock n roll.
Sam Phillips sold Elvis’s contract to a bigger studio. He was in debt and he knew he didn’t have the bankroll to really furthur Elvis’ career. A good move for both of them. Elvis didn’t want to leave. I enjoyed this tour very much. There are great pictures of great musicians here, some of their instruments and the recording studio itself. Even if you didn’t grow up in the 1950′s, you will enjoy the energy in this place. The tour guides are great. Lahna Deering was our guide and she is a musician with the Deering And Down band. You can hear her unique music on her website at this link.  I like it and hope she makes it big some day.
http://deeringanddown.com/fr_home.cfm
The rest of the studio tour is about the many great musicians that came here and made great music.
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A rare  picture of Roy Orbison without sunglasses.  Here he is, young and hopeful.
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Big Walter Horton, Blues Harmonica Giant

Big Walter Horton, Blues Harmonica Great.
B.B. King-Memphis Treasure

B.B. King.
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Jim Jaillet, my partner. We were invited to have fun, so we did, as did others. They encourage you to dance to the music and sing along.
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What a crooner!
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The way Roy Orbison usually appeared in public.
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Paul Burlison, a renowned session guitarist.
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Ike Turner,leader of the  Delta Cats Band.
Elvis with session guitarist Scotty Moore and base Bill Black.

Two of Elvis’ session players that were recorded with him at Sun Studios, Scotty and Bill.
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Rufus “Bearcat” Thomas Jr.
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Howlin Wolf.
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If you are an equipment junkie, it is all here.
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An old 45 RPM player. In fact, Sun Studios sells 100′s of remastered 45′s. They sell all of the wonderful pictures as well. It kind of makes me think about galleries who don’t allow pictures for fear you won’t buy any. They do a gold mine business selling everything and still allow photos. Kudos to them.
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Lahna demonstrated how Johnny Cash would put a dollar bill under his strings and loosen them up to get that special wheezy, twangy sound you hear  in “Folsom Prison Blues.”
A lot of information about Sun Studio, and all the greats that passed through its doors is on Wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun_Studio
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They have especially great pictures you don’t often see of Elivis.
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