Friday, May 25, 2012

HUBBELLS TRADING POST, NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE.

The Hubbell trading post,  established in 1876  is the oldest trading post in continuous use since it opened. Hubbell died in 1930. His son took over the post. His wife Dorothy Hubbell turned it over to the Park Service in about 1965 with the stipulation that it still be run as a trading post.  She removed her clothes and some personal effects and left  numberous  treasures that remain in the post. The docent told us there was a whole suitcase of silver conchos under one of the beds.
John Hubbell learned to speak Navajo as a young man while employed as a clerk and Spanish interpreter at forts and trading posts. Travelers, area ranchers and Indians depended on the hundreds of Trading Posts throughout the west to trade their goods and sustain their life on homesteads. Posts  were the only civilized spots for locals to communicate with each other and find out what was going on in the outside world that affected them. The building was small at first, and added onto over the years. Customers still walk through the old wooden door and this is what greets them:

Goods no longer sold hangs from the ceilings as it did then. The old hardwood floors squeak and bend as you walk through. Hubbell  began trading in 1876, a crucial time for the Navajo who were released from their imprisonment at Bosque Redondo. After the Long Walk, which killed about half of the Navajo,  they were allowed to return to their lands, only to find their hogans destroyed, horses , herds and crops long gone and a new life on a reservation. The Long Walk ended in 1868, but  reservation life came with restrictions, missionaries, Indian agents, and teachers all trying to re- aculturate them. It became a new struggle. Hubbell was merchant and liaison for them. Called Don Lorenzo by the Spanish and Nk’ee Sinili by the Navajo,  he didn’t try to change them.  He became a father figure to the Navajo, settling quarrels, explaining government policies. He was father confessor, justice of the peace, judge, jury and defacto mayor of the land.

Navajo’s learned blanket and rug making from the Spanish and quickly became accomplished with their own designs and dyes. Then and now, the post has a huge selection of excellent Navajo Blankets and Jewelry.

As in Hubbell’s time, the Navajo get fair treatment. Here their rugs and jewelry earn them the bulk of the money for their work, while the downtown trading posts like Richardsons and Maizels, the bulk of the money goes to the dealer. However, the in-town posts get more traffic. When you buy a rug and/or jewelry at  Hubbell’s, you are making an investment. We talked to, and photographed  a German woman who paid $1,600 for a bracelet.  Jim just shakes his head.

We took the tour of Hubbell’s home. The roof, the thatch, the huge beams, like those in the post made differently  than others I’ve seen. The house itself had Navajo rugs on every floor, every bed, over the windows and doors to keep out the cold. Blankets softened hard wooden chairs. We took a lot of pictures but technical difficulties have dictated a shortened blog today.
The post outdoor oven put out multiple loaves per day. The oven is still on the site.

The oven though broken down a bit, still stands on the grounds along with remnants of the old corn fields, a chicken coop with a big fat turkey in it.  Horses in the barns. Old equipment, buggies, saddles, leather goods of all types.

Hay in the corn cribs. In the 1800′s the corn  was fenced, the animals ranged free.

Something I’d never seen before in the post kitchen, is a dough riser sitting next to the stove for warmth. You can tell what huge batches of bread they made each day.

The old scarecrow from the 1960′s has a dangling aluminum can to help scare off the ravens.

The guest cottage served as hospitality to President Roosevelt one time.  Numerous guests were welcomed here to paint, rehabilitate or just join the family barbecues out back.

Family and guests  could spend the evenings outdoors next to the huge barbecue pit, by the light of hand-built lanterns that held a fat candle. I expect it gave a romantic light under the stars.
We took a lot of pictures but had difficulties with our signal where we are parked in Canyon De Chelly. As a travel destination, Hubbell Trading Post is an experience you shouldn’t miss. It really makes you feel you have stepped back in time. It isn’t far from the Canyon and worth going out of your way to find.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

WINDOW ROCK, AZ


Jim arranged for us to park for two nights at the Navajo Museum Library & Visitors Center in Window Rock, Arizona,  not far from Arizona’s border with New Mexico.  Here is located the seat  of government for the Navajo Nation on the largest reservation in the United States, at 27,000 square miles.

This “woman’s” hogan was removed to the center and is preserved here. It is a very solid building. The area is surrounded by huge rocks typical of those we have seen all over New Mexico. Somehow, we never get tired of these monolithic giants plopped down from some ancient cataclysmic event, that we might enjoy their beauty.



A great view out our dinette window. I’d love to be a kid again and climb these rocks and if I didn’t have a bum hip I would have. We watched young boys go up in minutes. On the grounds is a zoo populated by animals that have been injured and rescued to stay or be returned to the wild if they can be rehabilitated.

One of the main attractions in town is the window rock  for which the town is named.  A tribal park, a monument to the Navajo Code Talkers, a Veterans Memorial, and the Navajo Nation Council Chambers, are a stones throw of each other. We decided to walk the mile or so into town.

Window Rock  may have  significance  to the Navajo more than its simple beauty.  In the film from the Gallup Cultural Center we saw a Navajo woman singing the Marines Hymn,  in Navajo,  in front of  Window Rock. It is a fitting place for their Code Talkers and Veterans Memorial.

The first building we approached was the office of the President, Ben Shelly.  It is similar to our White House.  He was not available and we couldn’t meet him.

Next we visited their Council Chambers with the help of  Law And Order Chairperson, Edmond Yazzie , (right) and  Eldridge Anderson, Legislative District Assistant to Delegate Rosco Smith.  This building is where all the real action of government  takes place, similar to our House of Representatives.

The stone government buildings fit into the surrounding monolithic rocks.  Assistant Anderson gave us a VIP tour.

The view from Speaker of the Council, Johnny Naize’s seat.

The great seal behind his chair.

Council members desks face the Chair and are set up much like our National Houses of  Government.

Assistant Anderson gave us a poster of their members serving a four-year term 2011-2015. They have a true democracy where each district delegate is voted in by his constituents in his district without an electoral college between the voters and the final result.  Council members represent their districts by population, just as our House of Representatives.  Assistant Anderson was so accommodating, he gave  us a ride back to the motor home so we didn’t have to carry our paper posters in what was then a fierce wind, and then drove us back to town to finish our tour.

In town there is a daily flea market and a food court with about five small restaurants featuring Navajo foods.

I enjoyed a delicious sweet corn and lamb stew with Indian fry bread. Jim had a Navajo Taco on fry bread.

Genevieve Hardy invited us to join her for lunch and we learned a lot about the Navajo people, their schooling, languages and jobs in the community. She wears a neon vest because she bikes from home at Fort Defiance to work. Besides her government day job, she weaves custom native dresses, skirts,tops, and saddle blankets of wool. Her website is:   Jus.weaving@yahoo.com. A delightful woman. Her daughter works at Canyon De Chelly and we hope to connect with her.
We poked around town, a flea market, a Native  Arts and Crafts store, with quality jewelry and prices to match. ($6,000 and up for a necklace.)  No pictures.
We walked back to the motor home and visited the Nearby Museum and Library. I was expecting a Navajo language library. It was both. The museum was a history of the Navajo in paintings and photos with a some artifacts and a film.




This picture is about having to get your hair cut to go to the boarding schools.

The old ways.

A woman and her baby survived the long forced walk under Kit Carson where the Navajo were imprisoned at Bosque Redondo.
Window Rock should be a definite on your travel agenda.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

FOUR MUSEUMS IN ONE DAY.


The Navajo Museum at Red Rock Park is an absolute must to visit if you are in the area. There is no charge for this excellent museum. I took pictures of over 30 murals; they have great western art, wonderful pottery, old photographs. and a well done history of the Navajo.

One fascinating aspect of their culture is the sand paintings.  The one above was made to help heal someone “agitated” by a rattlesnake. The sand painting is made on the ground and the afflicted person lies on the sand while he is prayed over. When he stands up, grains of sand stick to him and the remaining sand is removed to a sacred place.

Making a sand painting is a tedious business, and the “paintings” are beautiful and precise.  Many framed and glued examples of sand paintings are here for you to see.  Fascinating.

I loved this photograph of the gnarled old grandmother’s hand with her sweet grandbaby’s innocent face. I took photos of photos from this museum and the Gallup Cultural Museum in downtown and I’m unsure what pictures came from which museum.


This ceremonial dance, the bent over form, the walking sticks can also be seen depicted in the murals.  This dance can be seen by the public when  Native Americans have a ceremonial day. Many of these dances are private and are not available to the public.

Excellent needle work.

Beautiful pottery with distinctive designs. With the crudest of tools, they made designs of great intricacy.  Young Navajo study the old designs to try and keep the patterns alive.

I took 34 photos of outdoor and indoor murals at this museum if you’d like to see them click the link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/106530979158681190260/GallupMurals?authkey=Gv1sRgCJOLrpjDgPaRsAE
Our next stop was the Code Talkers museum situated in a Christian School. This was more an honorarium for the 30 Code Talkers that had attended this school from Gallup.
And, the story is a fascinating one.  Speaking Navajo for communicating during battles turned out to be successful and essential. The Japanese could not break the code and it helped  turn the tide of many battles because communications were quick and decisive. A communication that would have taken more than an hour to get through without detection, could be radioed openly in Navajo in a few minutes.
Just how essential they were is stated by Major Howard Connor.

This tiny museum brushed briefly on their training. They needed to use vocabulary that was not in the Navajo language. It was rigorous training and memorization to coordinate a code talker on the battlefield. The code talker had to speak fluent English to apply.

While the little museum supplied pictures for us, the Gallup Cultural Center had an amazing  film on the Code Talkers. On the battlefield they were so important, they were surrounded by guards so they would be protected from friendly and enemy fire. Some soldiers could not tell a Navajo from a Japanese. During transportation, they were given berths on the train, they got special quarters and the best food. They were given respect. Something some of them experienced for the first time. It changed the path of the Navajo Nation. Code talkers returned to their land with a newly awakened purpose. They knew they had to become political, businessmen, teachers and assimilate into the culture to make headway in America and still be able to keep their native practices.

I thought this cartoon was worth seeing.

The beautiful old Rex Hotel in downtown Gallup is listed on the historic register. The building is in great shape and holds the Historical Society Museum. Local people donate their precious belongings for their own museum, school yearbooks, grandma’s washing machine, old tools and so on.  We like to go even though we see a lot of the same things over and again. We like to look for that jewel you may never find anywhere else.

What’s so charming about local museums is that everyone in town knows who Martha Zollinger’s mom is. They are, as this one was, overstuffed, personal and quaint; run by volunteers.

And, I found this jewel of an old stamp machine with envious prices for stamps.

And clip-on-your-shoes, sidewalk skates. I got my first pair when we moved to a city with sidewalks. They kept falling off and caused me  many skinned knees.

Gallup’s Cultural Center is in a beautiful old train station. A sweet cafe  reminiscent  of the cafe in pictures of   the station in its heyday.  It has a bit of everything. A masters and dreamers gallery. Historic pictures of all walks of life in the Gallup Community from Route 66, to coal mining, to Native American life.  But, the code talkers film is a do-not-miss.





Three paintings from the Gallery of Dreams, budding young artists.

A painting from the children’s gallery.

And work from the Masters Gallery.

I got my art fix. Then we went on to visit the famous El Rancho Hotel. Famous because of the many movies made here.  The stars put up at the best hotel in town. The El Rancho.

The building is still in use as a hotel. It is beautiful from the outside.

I’ve seen rustic wood buildings before. This one is fancier wood plank rustic.  Interesting doors.

The lobby was heated by a fireplace, no longer used.  People’s fascination of the place is more about the movie star pictures lining the upstairs balcony that over looks the lobby.

Lucy  and Desi.

Errol Flynn


Kirk Douglas

Paulette Goddard.

The pictures are a really fun cruise. I didn’t grow up with movies and I’m not gaga about movie stars, but they evoked old familiar movies I liked and faces we don’t see anymore.  In fact, the doors to the rooms in the hotel have a movie stars name above them.

We visited several jewelry stores because I wanted to find something from the Zuni tribe.   Their craft is declining as the old Zuni jewelry makers die and the younger people aren’t as interested in their art.  And, believe it or not, I took this photo of a photo in a jewelry store.  The little girl’s jewelry is Navajo.
It was a great museum, jewelry, history, art crawl and a full day. Later, I’ll blog some of the Navajo rugs and other pictures from this very full day.